I recently did a day trip to Srinagar. It was my first time. I was fascinated to see how the region, and especially the people were doing following the abrogation of Article 370. I went independently as a private tourist without any security and government guides.
I toured around the famous Dal Lake, had Kawa (a traditional tea brew) at the local market, met and spoke with various local people about their current situation.
It had been snowing the previous few days, so I was unsure if my flight from Delhi would take off. It did, and it was full. In fact, there are several flights every day to and from Delhi, and also from Mumbai aside from some other cities in India. It was bitterly cold at 3 degrees when I landed in Srinagar and yet, I was struck by how busy the airport was.
To my surprise, I also noticed a group of about 15 other tourists from Japan. I was told by my driver that a steady flow of tourists had started in the past few days. As we drove into the city, we passed a hospital. It was clearly open, but so too were the medical stores and other shops around it. I enquired if after the ‘lockdown’ there had been any problems regarding medical supplies (which we had been hearing in the western media). I was told that there had never been any issues of supplies of medicines. In fact, food and all other supplies had been available from the very start. There had also been no rationing as had been reported.
Yes there was clearly a significant security presence, mainly around the airport. But nothing which seemed intimidating or worrisome for people going about their daily routine. The security people were doing their job in keeping key installations like the airport secure, and the people were clearly going about their daily business.
As reported in the media, there had been a grenade attack by terrorists in a market place last week which tragically killed one person and injured around 40. These were all local people. As I wandered around the markets feeling quite relaxed myself, I had a sense of anger and perspective that the terrorists who claim to be freedom fighters, are the ones who are spreading fear amongst their so called “own people”. Why would they want to kill and maim their own people???
I stopped at several places to meet with local people, and to speak with them. There were certainly mixed reactions to the removal of Article 370. There were many who felt that this would bring development and jobs to the state, but some were more sceptical. The arguments for and against were interestingly all economic and nothing ideological.
I found all the people I met to be friendly and in good spirits. Shops are opening for longer each day. Schools are opening and where children aren’t coming to school, virtual classes have also been used! But ironically some militant groups are apparently forcing shop keepers and schools to stay closed as they don’t want to see the state return to normalcy (as this clearly defeats their agenda). I was told that there are only a few hundred of such people in the valley now, and they have largely been isolated by local people themselves.
The downside is that though mobile phones are working absolutely fine, there are restrictions on mass messaging platforms such as WhatsApp. Again, under the circumstances, I found this a tolerable restriction and heard more complaints about jobs and business than about WhatsApp or FB not working!
I just returned back to Delhi. I am really glad I pushed myself to see the situation first hand. I came away with a feeling of Kashmiri warmth and affection from all the people I met. They are a truly wonderful people living in a most remarkable place.
Mine was not a political visit in any way, but out of personal interest. I am more convinced than ever that the people of Jammu & Kashmir want nothing more than lasting peace and a prosperous future for themselves and their families. There is a broad acceptance that the removal of Article 370 could just be that opportunity that has eluded them for decades.
(Caption: Manoj (right) with local residents)
