Bahrain-born, London-based, and New York-trained, Noor Murad joined the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen in 2018, contributing to ‘Falastin’, ‘Flavour’, and Ottolenghi’s Guardian and New York Times columns. Now head of the Test Kitchen, she co-authored ‘Shelf Love’ and ‘Extra Good Things’. Her Middle Eastern heritage—rooted in Arabic, Indian, and Persian flavors—defines her cooking, with her recipes featured in ‘The Guardian’, ‘The New York Times’, and on BBC’s ‘Saturday Kitchen’.
Her latest book, ‘Lugma’, celebrates Middle Eastern cuisine and culture, aiming to showcase its authentic flavours. Speaking to Asian Voice, Noor shares the inspiration behind the book, her take on Indian-style cooking, and more.
How has your upbringing and heritage shaped your approach to food, especially in blending flavours from different regions?
I grew up between two worlds—my English mother and Arab father shaped a unique upbringing in Bahrain, enriched by summers in England. My food experiences were just as diverse, from traditional family meals to street food with my dad. At home, my mother, a passionate cook, explored global cuisines—Indian, Asian, Italian, French—you name it. She explored cuisines from all over the world, but the one she never attempted was Gulf cuisine, simply because she didn’t feel confident cooking it. This contrast shaped my palate, fostering a love for blending flavours. That influence is evident in ‘Lugma’, where subtle Western twists reflect my culinary journey and personal style.
How have Indian flavours influenced Bahraini cuisine, and how do you incorporate them into your cooking?
Bahrain, a small island in the Persian Gulf, has long been a vital seaport and trade hub. Its strategic location brought a rich blend of cultural influences, including Persian, Indian, and Arab traditions, shaping its unique culinary identity. In Bahrain, many Indian dishes have evolved into unique local versions. Dal, for example, retains its Indian roots but is distinctly Bahraini, often finished with a tadka—a technique I frequently use. Similarly, sambusa, Bahrain’s take on samosas, are smaller, wrapped in thin pastry, and often filled with spicy potatoes or mung beans. Even tikka has a Persian twist, with meat marinated in black lime and grilled. I’ve adapted this by using the same flavours in a minced lamb sambusa filling.
Spices are at the heart of both Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines. Which Indian spices do you find yourself using the most, and how do they enhance your dishes?
While developing the recipes for ‘Lugma’, I realised just how much turmeric I use—far more than I had initially thought! It’s a staple in my cooking, even in unexpected dishes like macaroni. In fact, in our version of macaroni, I add at least two spoonful’s of turmeric, which gives it a beautiful colour and depth of flavour. One of the recipes in the book is for a Middle Eastern-style Bolognese, a rich and spicy meat sauce used in macaroni. The combination of turmeric and pasta is very much a Middle Eastern tradition, particularly influenced by Persian cuisine, where turmeric is a beloved spice. Cardamom is another spice I use frequently, not just in savoury dishes like rice, but also in beverages. In our culture, coffee is often infused with cardamom and saffron, creating a beautifully aromatic and warming drink. I love how versatile cardamom is—it adds a distinct depth to both sweet and savoury dishes, making it an essential ingredient in my kitchen.
Ramadan is a time for spiritual reflection and, of course, special food traditions. How does ‘Lugma’ cater to those observing Ramadan?
‘Lugma’ is all about rustic, comforting food—slow-cooked stews, lamb dishes, and curries that feel nourishing and soulful. In Bahrain, especially during Ramadan, we turn to warming meals regardless of the season. After a day of fasting, dishes that have simmered for hours, like hearty soups and slow-cooked meats, provide both physical and emotional nourishment. These flavours and traditions are at the heart of ‘Lugma’, capturing the essence of food that truly speaks to the soul.
Are there any childhood memories of Ramadan feasts that have influenced your approach to festive cooking?
Ramadan has always been a deeply family-oriented time for me. When my grandfather was alive, we gathered at his house every night for Iftar, with a table full of dishes. One of my strongest memories is waiting for the ‘warte’ cannon to boom across Bahrain, signalling the fast’s end, followed by the ‘Azan’. The sounds, sights, and aromas of those moments define Ramadan for me—family, tradition, and shared meals. Our Iftar was always a potluck, with everyone contributing a dish. My English mother, though she didn’t observe Ramadan, loved cooking for the family, often bringing something different—perhaps risotto or lasagna—alongside traditional Arabic dishes. That blend of tradition and personal touches made Ramadan even more special.
