For Zakiya Batool Syed Arif, cooking is more than just a passion, it’s a bridge to the past, a way to reconnect with the mother she lost too soon.
Growing up in a South Indian-Muslim household, food was never just about sustenance; it was an act of love, tradition, and community. Her mother, a gifted cook, spent her life preserving and passing down generations of culinary knowledge, ensuring that every meal carried the weight of history and the warmth of home.
But when Zakiya lost her at just 21, she was left with a deep longing, not just for her presence, but for the dishes that defined her childhood. It wasn’t until years later, when she moved away from home, that she found herself drawn to the kitchen, cooking not just to nourish herself but to revive the flavours of her mother’s table.
Now, with a Ramadan Special Supper Club, Zakiya shared this deeply personal journey with others. About the inspiration behind the supper club, she said, “The idea fascinated me, inviting people into your home, sharing food, telling stories, and bringing people together. It reminded me of my mother. She was always that person, the one who welcomed people, made sure no one left hungry, and created a warm, communal space.”
Featuring Dhakni cuisine, a rare and underrepresented culinary tradition from a small Muslim community in South India that she belongs to, her supper clubs are more than just meals, they are stories, legacies, and a heartfelt tribute to the woman who taught her the true meaning of hospitality.
A tapestry of culture and heritage
The Dhakni community is a culturally rich and historically significant group primarily found in South India, with strong roots in cities like Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, and parts of Maharashtra.
The name "Dhakni" comes from the word "Deccan", referring to the vast southern plateau of India. Over time, this evolved into "Dhakni," representing not just a geographical identity but a distinct cultural and linguistic heritage. What makes the Dhakni people truly fascinating is their blend of diverse cultural influences. Over centuries, the community has absorbed Persian, Arabic, and Turkish elements while staying deeply connected to South Indian traditions.
One of the most distinctive aspects of Dhakni culture is its food, a hidden culinary treasure that combines the royal richness of Mughlai flavours with the bold and earthy essence of South Indian cooking. The result is a unique, aromatic, and flavourful cuisine that deserves more recognition.
The flavours of Dhakni cuisine and the essence of Ramadan
At the heart of Ramadan in the Dhakni community are dishes like Haleem, Kichara, and Dalcha, slow-cooked preparations that embody warmth and nourishment and food is a language of love, a means of hospitality, and a way to foster community spirit.
What sets Dhakni cuisine apart is its unique use of spices and cooking techniques. Many of its flavours feel familiar, yet the preparation methods make them distinct. A prime example is Zeera-Methi, a spice blend that goes beyond its literal translation of "cumin-fenugreek." This carefully crafted mix includes mustard seeds, lentils, raw rice, black pepper, and curry leaves—each ingredient roasted and stored individually and combined into a coarse, aromatic blend right before it is added to any food preparation. This spice mix is a staple in every Dhakni kitchen, forming the base for many of the community’s curries and stews.
Another dish that is a Dhakni specialty and always accompanies our biryani is Dalcha—a lentil-based stew cooked with bottle gourd, giving it a distinct flavour.
Beyond home-cooked meals, the mosques in Bangalore play a central role in Ramadan traditions, particularly through the preparation of Ash—a thick, nourishing porridge made with minced lamb, crushed rice, moong dal, dill leaves, tomatoes, yogurt, and green chilies. The dish is cooked in large quantities from morning until evening, then served to those breaking their fast at the mosque. Families line up with tiffin in hand, eagerly waiting for their share of this comforting dish.
As a child, Zakiya remembers the excitement of taking her tiffin to collect Ash, a ritual that bonded her to the community and to her family's heritage. In her home, samosas were the perfect accompaniment to Ash. “When I hosted my supper club, I made Ash the centrepiece, sharing its story with my guests. To complete the experience, I prepared lamb samosas to accompany it, just as my family does”, she said.
Another beautiful aspect of Ramadan in the Dhakni community is Meva, a collective food donation system that ensures everyone has access to a meal. Unlike charity, Meva is for everyone—regardless of wealth or status. Families contribute fresh rotis, vegetable curries or assortment of fruits and sweets. It is a moment where societal differences fade away, and people sit side by side, breaking their fast together in an atmosphere of warmth and unity.
For Zakiya, these traditions are more than just memories; they are the foundation of her supper clubs. Through her food, she recreates the flavours of her childhood, paying tribute to the unrecorded recipes and shared meals that shaped her identity. And in doing so, she ensures that the spirit of Dhakni cuisine lives on.
