From Kolkata with love

Sohini Banerjee celebrates her Bengali roots and global travels through authentic, home-style cuisine with Smoke and Lime

Anusha Singh Wednesday 07th August 2024 22:58 EDT
 
 

Sohini Banerjee has been delighting guests with her ‘Smoke and Lime’ supper clubs, a culinary journey inspired by her Kolkata roots and global travels, since 2018. Her food, deeply rooted in the techniques and stories of Kolkata, also reflects her personal cravings and favourite dishes, creating a warm, home-like atmosphere for her guests.

Her inspiration behind starting the supper club is food satisfaction while also reflecting her experiences as a British Indian and her travels around the world. “At the core of it all is my home food—it's what I grew up eating and the supper clubs have always been an extension of that”, she said.

Another factor that has inspired her supper club is the fact that Bengali food is not widely available in the UK, especially the authentic, homely food. “That was part of the idea behind the supper clubs; to give people a taste of what I eat and cook at home. The journey has evolved since I started in 2018. Initially, I focused more on celebratory Bengali dishes, like monkfish and other special occasion foods. Now, I want to showcase the food we eat out of necessity—basic dishes made to be the best thing you've had that weekend”, she further explained.

The uniqueness of Bengali cuisine

According to Sohini, Bengali cuisine is distinct in its approach. Unlike other South Asian cuisines, Bengali food follows a specific progression of flavours where you start with something bitter, then move to steamed, fried, lentils, fish, and meat dishes. “This sequence ensures that each flavour complements the next, rather than mixing everything together”, she said.

Detailing more unique aspects of the cuisine, she added, “Another distinctive feature of Bengali cuisine is its minimal use of onions and garlic in everyday cooking, focusing instead on other spices and ingredients. This aspect may be surprising to those unfamiliar with Bengali food, as the typical Western view of Indian cuisine often involves a heavy reliance on onions and garlic. Additionally, Bengali cuisine generally uses less dairy, making it lighter on the stomach.

“In particular, the Ghoti style from pre-partition Bengal emphasises ginger and whole spices such as Panch Phoran, kalonji, and mustard seeds, while powdered spices like cumin, coriander, and chili powder are used sparingly compared to other Indian cuisines.”

Additionally, Sohini shared that a lot of Bengali food has evolved out of necessity, particularly due to colonialism. This resourcefulness is reflected in the cuisine's emphasis on not wasting ingredients. “For example, a single potato can be used to create multiple dishes. This practical approach is a testament to the ingenuity and resilience that define Bengali food culture”, she shared.

Feedbacks that make a difference

For establishments like Sohini's supper club, feedback is essential for understanding reactions and fuelling inspiration. Often, customers become cherished friends. One attendee shared how Sohini’s cooking helped her reconnect with her roots. She explained, “Her relationship with cooking was deeply tied to her father, who passed away during Covid. He was an excellent cook, and with his passing, she felt a loss of heritage and recipes, as she could no longer learn from him directly.”

After attending several cooking lessons, she told Sohini that the food at her events connected her more to her heritage than anything else. She said Sohini’s cooking reminded her of not only her parents but also her great-grandparents and their origins. That feedback was profoundly meaningful to Sohini, serving as a validation of her work beyond any financial reward.

Sohini also receives heartfelt messages on Instagram. For instance, a recent message came from a second-generation Bengali in America. She mentioned using Sohini’s videos to teach her teenage son about his heritage. “She noted that her son, who was often reluctant to eat traditional dishes like dal and puri, had developed a greater interest in them after watching my content. It’s incredibly moving to know that I might be helping bridge a gap between generations and cultural heritage, even from afar,” Sohini said.

Food and heritage

Food reflects the traditions, customs, and values of a culture, with recipes and cooking techniques often passed down through generations, preserving the essence of cultural identity. Sohini shares this belief; “Food is fundamental to understanding oneself. It holds significant meaning because it’s tied to nostalgia, memories, and upbringing. For me, and many others, food is more than just sustenance—it’s a vital part of our heritage and identity.”

Expanding on the connection between food and heritage, Sohini recalls, “Growing up in Britain, I was often frustrated with my mom for making dal every day when I craved pizza or hamburgers. Now, as an adult, I find that home-cooked food is what grounds me. Food, as a representation of heritage, can convey more than books or movies; it’s a multi-sensory experience that deeply connects us to our past.”

Sohini also shared her views on fusion food, acknowledging that while the term can be contentious, its implications are not inherently problematic. “For example, my own cooking might be considered fusion because, growing up in the UK, my dishes naturally incorporate British influences. This blend feels authentic to me, as it reflects my personal experience,” she explained.

She added, “The real issue arises when fusion dishes are created without a genuine connection to the cook's background or experience, particularly if they’re made merely for attention. For instance, I combine elements from Thai, Malaysian, and Bengali cuisines in my cooking. This fusion is authentic to me because of my deep connection to those cuisines through travel, eating, and personal identification. I prepare these dishes because I genuinely enjoy them, not just to attract attention.”

On a broader scale, Sohini believes that all food is a form of fusion, naturally reflecting the blending of cultures.


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